"NOVICE NOTES" FOR PRO-34 MODIFICATIONS
 

1.  Remove the 4 small phillips scres on the back of the unit

2.  Remove the batter cover and battery holder from the case.

3.  Remove the two knobs on the top of the case (Volume &  Squelch)

4.  The Case has some pressure fit points, These are at the bottom of
    the case and you need to be a bit careful in forcing the two halves
    of the case shell appart. Once you have the pressure fit points 
    at the bottom released, angle up the bottom of the case until
    the battery sepperation wall is clear of the internal metal frame, and 
    slide towards the top of the unit, place the back half of the shell aside.

5.  Now you will see the RF boad mounted to the metal support frame, The 
    BNC (antenna) conector leads and the volume control power switch leads
    are soldered directly to the board. Carefully desolder these 4 connections.

6.  At the bottom of the RF board there is a IF Can transformer that has a small
    wire as a groundign strap soldered directly to it. Desolder this as well.

7.  There will be some wires from the volume controle knob to the PC board that
    are socketed. Remove the plug from the ~F board (needle nose pliers work)

8.  There will also be a similar wire (small sheilded ) from the squelch control
    to the RF board wich is also Socketed. Remove the plug from the RF board.
    (Again Needle Nose Pliers work good here)

9.  Remove the 4 thredded stand-offs from the RF Board (these Hold the RF board to
    the internal mettal frame and are where the screws that hold the back of the
    case on go.) Use a nut driver or Needle Nose Pliers.

10. Now there the RF board is mostly free. The only thing holding it in is the row
    of connector pins on its botom side that plug into the logic board. You will
    need to pry this board up gently. Be warned that the bottom side of the RF 
    board is just chock full of Very Small surface mounted omponents. So use 
    something non-metalic and smooth to do the prying with.

11. Now that you have removed the RF board, place it along with the case shell back

12. The Internal Metal support frame is now exposed. there are 3 small phillips
    screws holding the mettal frame to the bottom Logic board (actually, these
    screws go through the logic board and into the front half of the case.)
    2 of the screws are near the top, and 1 is at the bottom of the metal frame.
    remove these 3 screws.

13. There is a small socketed wire that leads from the small power pc board on the
    metal frame that goes under it and is pluged into the Logic board. Lift
    the metal frame up and remove the power plug from the PC board. Place the 
    metal frame with|the rest of your parts pile.

14. You are have the component side of the  Logig board exposed now. There are
    2 small phillips screws at the bottom of the PC board (where the Battery 
    compartment WAS) Remove them.

15. Once you have the the last 2 screw removed the Logic board is free. The
    speaker wires lead from the speaker to the logic board on the bottom side.
    These are soldered in but there is enough play in them to allow you to
    make the mods.


16. NOTE: The keyboard lock switch is a funky little piece of plastic with
    a sliding stainless metal contactor that is just wedged inbetween the
    front case and the logic board. Remove both the switch contacts and the
    plastic switch. (best know it now or loose them in the carpet)

17. On the component side of the PC board you will see lots of nifty surface
    mounted compone~ts, a fat little barrel capacitor (used for maintaining the
    channel freqs while you change the batteries.. and make modifications :)
    near the edge of the PC board you will see a couple of small diodes moutned
    vertically. These will be labeled on the PC board as D10 and D11, you will
    also see a place for another diaode to be soldered in but was not 
    installed at the factory.. this is D9.

18. You must now move diode D11 to the place where D9 is labled. As you have
    probably noticed by now there is a tin cover over about 1/2rd of the
    PC boards solder side. The edge of the tin cover nearest the diodes has
    2 metal tabs soldered to the P board. Desolder these 2 tabs and gently
    bend the metal cover way from the soder side of the PC board. This will
    expose the board enough to let you get your soldering iron in to where
    the diode leads are.

19. Desolder the D11 diode from the bottom while pulling it away from the board
    on the top  of the board using neadle nose pliers on the LEAD only.

20. Now heat up the D9 solder pads and insert the diode (the same way it was 
    oriented in the D11 location)

You Have Completed the Mods for complete 800mhz band coverage and 66-88mhz band
cov}rage.

Follow the same steps backwards (20->1)and replace "remove" with "replace"
and "desolder" with "solder"

LASTLY, Now that you have made the mods, you can use the warranty card to
light the Bar-B-Q Grill with. :-)

source: Mark Copple