November 1997
Eleanor thought that it was possible that any success she was having was being allowed by her controllers. She reported that they seemed to progressively break through each advance she made.
She therefor released the Second February 1997 Update and Caveat.
Now she says that she has given up. Perhaps a million dollar Faraday cage would work.
She requests feedback at raven1@netaccess.on.ca
Original Article (below)
A followup of new and successful developments
First February 1997 Update
Second February 1997 Update and Caveat
Introduction
RE: Technical Jargon
This Writer's Experience
Proposed Shielding Experiment
"Mu Metal"
Steel Chain
Steel Buttons
Shielding vs. Non-Burning Harassment
Stealth Paint
Possible Shielding Setback
Hopeful Note re: Shielding Setback
Quick, Easy Test to See If Solid Steel Helps
Repeating a Recommendation from Julianne McKinney
"Grounding"
Forced Ventilation
Selection of a Fan
Ventilation Ducting
Ancillary Cables Into the Sleeping Box
Request for Feedback
Skin-Contact Shielding
Finding the Aiming Direction
Skin Contact Materials
What follows is a set of notes based on the experience of one electromagnetic harassment victim where some of the harassment effects have been reduced and sometimes eliminated by shielding. Any reader who tries various types of shielding is invited to write to raven1@netaccess.on.ca for further information.
Reports of what works and what doesn't would also be very much appreciated.
August 25, 1996
Note: Apologies to readers who may not understand technical jargon or who are unable to do the metal- work described in these notes. The idea is that those readers who can afford to experiment with shielding may have access to helpers and/or local tradesmen who will understand.
I experience two main forms of electronic harassment:
I have had some success in shielding with the burns. Thought I'd pass the progress to date along for your information. I'd like to remain anonymous.
My guess is that it is possible to reduce or even eliminate the 'voices' type of mind control harassment with enough shielding, at least while asleep. It is public knowledge (it's patented) that microwave is used for transmitting the voices. Microwave can be stopped.
We can't walk around in medieval armour, of course, but 8 hours of harassment-free sleep would be a major improvement in victims' quality of life.
As further experimentation demonstrates more things to try, I'll pass them on also.
Here is a quick progress report on shielding experimentation to date:
The 'cigarette burns' are very likely from a microwave device, possibly a 'maser' (a microwave counterpart of a laser). Microwave can be stopped by appropriate shielding, unlike direct ELF waves from a nearby antenna.
In my case, I've tried these materials:
Only solid steel sheet has been any help at all for shielding which is not placed against the skin. I have covered about 90% of my bed with solid sheet steel obtained from a supplier of industrial shelving. Panels range from (approximately) 24" x 48" up to 48" x 48" and come with very handy bolt holes for attaching screws or hanger rope and wire. The steel is painted and clean.
(See September 1, 1996 note below for shielding in skin contact.)
Due to suspension chains holding my be 4 feet above the floor (necessary to reduce fields sent from below) I haven't quite been able to get 100% coverage.
It is that 10% gap, for suspension chains (and ventilation) which provides my harassers the chance to aim their maser inside. Even if they can't aim directly at me, a maser beam will bounce around quite a bit inside the steel shell around my bed.
I'm going to try next an experiment using an office supplies cabinet, 30" x 18" x 72", and a sleeping bag to see if totally sealing off all aiming directions will help. My harassers are so close that it may not help 100%, but I'm confident it will reduce the burns. (I will have to wait a month or two until my budget can support the purchase.)
I'll use a small fan ducted through a 3" plumbing iron pipe nipple at the top and bottom of the cabinet for ventilation. If reasonably successful, I may get some radar absorptive paint and put together a baffle for each end through which microwave will be absorbed before it gets inside.
I'm passing this cabinet idea along so that others who may not have their harassers in an adjacent apt. or who can afford to try the cabinet sooner might see if it helps. I do know that when the aiming point is known, even at my close range, those panels DO stop most of the microwave, where the other metals don't.
There is a metal alloy called 'mu metal' which is supposed to be more magnetic than plain steel.
Exactly how much I don't know yet. Cheryl Welsh passes on this address:
Cutting Edge Catalog
Befit Enterprises Ltd.
PO Box 5034
Southampton NY 11969
800-497-9516.
I have ordered the catalog. I suspect the alloy is more expensive than steel and I don't know just how much more magnetic it is. It is the magnetic properties of steel which are probably the reason for my experimental successes.
There is one other experimental success which may be of use to other microwave burn victims: steel chain.
I have woven together a sort of chain mail 'hood' using about 50 feet of steel chain. (It must test magnetic.)
This chain is commonly available in hardware stores and comes either chrome- or nickel-plated. It has twisted links, and is essentially the same chain you find in dog choke collars and leashes.
It is smooth and comfortable against skin.
The twisted links reduce the amount of opening available to an incoming microwave burn signal.
I've found that if the harassers are really intent on burning your body behind the chain mail, they can raise the power enough to cause some sensation but the amount of sensation is still less as long as the chain is in good contact with your bare skin.
If the harassers are really intent on burning a selected spot, then if you put under the chain mail either a patch of aluminum foil or one of those very wide 'body and fender' washers (steel, zinc coated usually) the combination of chain and spot shield will stop the burn. (The smaller B&F washers fit well into the outer ear.)
I use a skin-tolerant 1/8" diameter cotton cord to do the weaving of the chain mail. for quick testing it is not necessary to weave anything - just hold the chain in a lump against the body part under attack. Ensure contact is made with bare skin. The more pressure, the greater contact area and the greater relief from the microwave burns.
Finally, I've found a source of rivet-style 0.6" diameter nickel-plated decorative buttons. I'm going to rivet these in the tightest possible pattern on to a cloth backing. On the opposite side, I'll rivet another layer of the buttons which will cover the gaps.
I'm hoping that will provide a lighter and more comfortable shield than the chain, which can be heavy and does sometimes slip off while sleeping.
August 27, 1996
The more I read the testimonials of other electro- magnetic harassment victims in far worse shape than I, it appears that:
. . . are the most used harassment devices.
Furthermore, implants seem to be the 'channel' used to direct the voices and possibly hypnoscaped visual effects into the heads of victims, while avoiding others nearby.
Satellites seem a highly suspect source since the harassment is inescapable. (Satellite signals are not strong, so shielding may work well in case you are a victim of satellite signals.)
More and more and more, it seems that shielding is the one thing we victims can try to eliminate the harassment at least part of the day, normally the time spent sleeping.
I have had success in shielding from burns and muscle jerks to a lesser extent using solid steel shielding. That has been detailed in a recent note.
This note is to add a suggestion to readers who can afford to try it:
Try radar-absorbing "stealth" paint on the outside of a sleeping box. Also, line the ventilation openings with this stuff.
I cannot guarantee success, since my income is limited and it will be some time before I can afford either the box or the paint.
Just in case there are victims who can afford to try this now, one source is our friendly electromagnetic weapons store:
Consumertronics
2011 Crescent Drive
P.O. Drawer 537
Alamogordo NM
88310-0537
505-434-0234 voice or fax
505-438-1776 voice only
The paint is listed under the heading of "Stealth Paint Mix (SPM)" on page 18 of my catalog. It's priced at:
$49 to mix in 1 quart of your paint
$395 for enough mix for 10 quarts
You supply whatever type of paint you want.
Caution: One Consumertronics customer returned an electronic item, the broadband EM countermeasure device (BEMC) because it did not work. [No refund, requiring a lawsuit.- E.L.]
That does not guarantee failure of all items from Consumertronics, because any active (i.e. signal producing) countermeasure device will not work on all incoming signals, just those for which it is set up.
Stealth paint, being a passive item, has a better chance of working than the BEMC device.
Stealth paint works by absorbing incoming signals and changing their energy to heat. It provides incoming signals with a really tough path to follow, like trying to run fast through waist deep water. (You'll eventually get there, but with far less remaining energy.)
I'm speculating that a solid steel box with a coating of stealth paint might be good enough even to stop a satellite communicating with an implant. (Assuming, of course, that conventional electromagnetic signals are being used.)
Cell phones even work in elevators, so it may take some time before we know how to really seal off ourselves completely from the incoming signals.
August 27, 1996
Just discovered a potentially serious setback while reading a lecture by Dr. Eldon Byrd, Psychotronics guy (and E.E. too) who has done work for the U.S. Navy. This lecture is part of the Leading Edge Research Group web site at http://www.cco.net/~trufax
Near the end of the lecture, Dr. Byrd says that there is a way to get microwave through anything - solid steel included. You start out with an ELF carrier wave, which does the penetrating. On top of the ELF wave you put a pulsed microwave signal. This is 'modulation in reverse' of what is usually done with ordinary radio, TV, radar etc.
This gets the damaging pulses inside the steel box. His lecture says General Motors is experimenting with using this type of signal to zap army tank crews. (Hopefully they are using the signals to build a defense.)
My suspicion is that there will be some way to at least reduce the signal even in this potent 'brew' of electromagnetic assault. Any other experimenters might want to keep their eye/mind open for some way this type of signal might be shielded against.
I'm not the world's top electronics expert, but to the best of my knowledge, even though an ELF wave has high penetration, the power level will fall off rapidly with distance, as with any other electromagnetic wave.
What that means to an electronic harassment victim is that your harassers will have to be fairly close, as in an adjacent apartment, for plain ELF or ELF with microwave 'modulation' to get through your shielding.
Those victims who can put a little distance, even a hundred feet, between themselves and their harassers' transmitter do have some hope that shielding will offer some protection.
August 30, 1996
Note: Apologies to readers who may not understand technical jargon or who are unable to do the metal- work described in these notes. The idea is that those readers who can afford to experiment with shielding may have access to helpers and/or local tradesmen who will understand.
Victims vary in their main methods of harassment (and intensity). Before spending a bundle on a steel sleeping box, a 'daytime' victim (one who has
continuous attacks all the time) can quickly test the idea by simply ducking into a steel cabinet (at work for example.)
Solid closure of openings is critical to this test - microwave does bounce around like light, and so is capable of entering at almost any angle. Even a no-side-window panel van wouldn't be a true test unless the driver compartment windows were covered with steel also.
Ideally the cabinet would be non-louvered, but if it is, an aluminum foil cover temporarily held up against any openings may prove or disprove the idea.
Note: If your sensations occur because of pre-programmed hypnotic cues, this test may indicate no success.
I would be very grateful if any daytime victims try this if they could let me know how this works for them. I'm at:
raven1@netaccess.on.ca
I read in a MindNet copy of a letter from Julianne McKinney to a victim that commercially available copper scouring pads, especially the larger sizes, can act as good shields.
(I will try these, but I still suspect a solid steel 'sleeping box' would be about as good as it gets.)
What makes her recommendation important is that ventilation and comfort are necessary for continued use. Scouring pads are light in weight and allow for some air passage.
They might be useful in a forced ventilation pipe into a sleeping box at both ends to help trap stray signals from entering that way, and they are certainly much cheaper than anti-radar 'stealth paint'.
My experience suggests that whatever shielding is used, it consistently works much better if it is magnetic. I plan on shopping around with a small magnet to test before buying. I would guess that a silver-finish scrubber would work quite well if it tested magnetic.
(Not every copper-coloured scouring pad is actually made of copper or has copper plating.)
As I try to work out defences to the EM harassment, I have heard a number of sincerely helpful experts caution me to be sure my shielding is grounded.
My experience has been that grounding has no effect at all, and I believe I know why.
My harassers use both direct ELF and microwave, from apartments above and below mine. Direct ELF will penetrate anything, so grounding does no appreciable good for that.
Microwave has very physically short "waves", of the order of a few centimeters down to tiny fractions of a meter. A piece of wire in the path of a microwave signal will electrically 'vibrate', also with physically short distances between nodes and null points. (There is no signal at a "null" point, and maximum signal at a "node".)
Grounding with microwave may force the nodes and nulls to shift position a little, but that doesn't actually contribute to any shielding effect.
Furthermore, both water pipes and the 'green ground' in your power wiring are sometimes several stories above the deep, damp 'earth ground plane'. Lots and lots of nodes and nulls can exist between you and that ground plane, which means that in reality, you are not grounded as far as microwave goes. You are more like the tip of an antenna.
It is worth trying, of course, but don't be surprised if even top notch grounding doesn't affect your harassment level.
I'd appreciate hearing about your own experiences at:
raven1@netaccess.on.ca
August 31, 1996
Note: Apologies to readers who may not understand technical jargon or who are unable to do the metal- work described in these notes. The idea is that those readers who can afford to experiment with shielding may have access to helpers and/or local tradesmen who will understand.
If a solid steel box is to be used as a shielded sleep- ing enclosure, you will certainly need a continuous supply of fresh air. What follows here are my plans for ventilation as soon as I can afford to try a test sleeping box.
In general, most household fans are not designed to operate against a fairly high pressure. In contrast, a vacuum cleaner is, but the output air would be far too hot for comfort and the noise level would make sleeping impossible.
The Comair-Rotron company sells fans for equipment cooling. Forcing ventilation air through a 3-inch pipe (my choice) at both ends of the sleeping box requires a fair amount of pressure, and the noise level can't be higher than that which can be dealt with using perhaps foam ear plugs and/or white noise inside the box.
In general, you "can't" step down voltage with a variac or speed control to an induction motor, because it will overheat. However, through lots of experimentation over the past 3 years, I have never had a fan motor burn out or even seem unusually hot while using a variac to control speed. (This is probably due to the passing airstream and the fact that the mechanical load drops off when you slow down a fan.)
Due to the pressure requirements, I would recommend 'going for the max' in the Rotron fan line right off the bat. That way you will probably never suffer for lack of power. My recommendation is to use the model I use at home (for forced outside air ventilation):
Model: 'Tarzan' TN3C2 (lead wires) or TN3A2 (terminal block)
Power: 115 VAC 1.4 amps
Air flow: 280 CFM
Size: 6.91" square x 4.40" deep
Other: Ball bearings, auto reset
thermal protector
Price: (guess) $100 U.S.
A major electronics component distributor should be able to get this fan for you. I have a several years-old catalogues for one U.S. firm: Newark Electronics. (It's the Canadian version which doesn't have U.S. addresses.)
Local ham radio operators and/or TV repair shops will probably know how to contact Newark Electronics.
One word on specs: The amps rating is a rough but fair rating of a fan's overall capacity to move air. If you are considering a substitute, a comparable amp rating may do an adequate job.
The idea is to get the air in (and out) without providing a ready path for stray microwave, which can bounce around inside ductwork and get through just as light can.
My choice would be to have an electrician use his/her hole-saw to put a 3-inch conduit size hole in both top and bottom of the sleeping box.
At the outlet end, I would install just a 3-inch conduit "LB" connector, which makes a sharp right angle turn and has a removable steel cover. (Make sure all components test magnetic.)
At the inlet end, I would install a 3-inch conduit "LB" connector, and "nipple" that directly fits into a domestic outdoor electric meter socket, the hole in which is a fairly good size match for the 'Tarzan' fan above. (Verify the size match before buying any meter socket.)
The installer would then have to drill for four mounting studs being very careful to match the fan's corner mounting bolt holes. Personally I recommend drilling out the Tarzan's corner mounting holes with a 17/64" drill to accommodate 1/4-20 threaded stove bolts, which will easily handle the fan's fairly heavy weight.
It would be a good safety feature to cover the fan with stiff wire screen.
Inside the box the pipe nipple should be secured with a rounded bushing (which is normally used to prevent nicking of cable insulation.)
At both ends, I would fill a short section of the 3-inch air pathway with loosened pan scrubber pad material to reduce microwave penetration. This material would need loosening up to allow free airflow. Lots of room for experimentation here. (Thank you, Julianne McKinney.)
I'm not sure right now how to fasten the scrubber pad material to prevent it's being blown out. Anyone have any good ideas?
You may want to put a variac and/or other devices (clock, white noise mach. etc.) inside the box. This means another penetration of the box.
I recommend the same type of treatment as with the air duct: Use a small "LB" connector to prevent a straight shot in for microwave signals.
Also, after the right angle "LB", along the outside of the box, it is probably wise to run at least a foot of the smaller conduit so that microwave has farther to go. (I would run more than a foot.)
This method will require that the appliance power plugs be cut off and replaced after the cables pass through the small conduit.
So far, this series of notes on shielding is largely speculative. Both my own experience and Julianne McKinney's shows that shielding does work, sometimes only partially, but still worth the effort.
Based on that success, I'm proposing that a solid steel sleeping box would probably do the best job possible. I will have to wait for some time to try this, due to short finances.
I would be really grateful if anyone who tries various shielding schemes would let me know at:
raven1@netaccess.on.ca
September 1, 1996
My tests with shielding have so far shown that only solid sheet steel can guarantee shielding effect when the shield is not in skin contact but is in line with a known aiming direction.
However, when the shielding is in good contact with the skin, all metals seem to act as shielding, possibly by short-circuiting some of the induced current.
Skin contact shielding will not work very well unless you are able to determine the aiming direction, (if in fact there is one.) The reason is that, say, microwave entering your body from a direction behind the shielding will travel through your body and cause burning etc. from behind the shielding.
If you can't determine the aiming direction, you may have signals coming at you from many directions. In that case, skin contact shielding will probably help, but not stop, the burning.
I've had success with trying steel panels in various locations around, above, and below my bed. If a new location gives you a definite pause in the harassment effects, that is likely an aiming direction.
The smallest steel test panel I've had success with is an oven roasting pan.
My experience is that the harassers will move fairly quickly to change aiming angle, sometimes within the hour.
Aluminum is a good candidate for skin-contact shielding as its oxide coating prevents most skin irritation problems. Up to about 1/32" thickness it can be shaped using metal shears (or heavy weed stem cutters) and can easily be filed to remove sharp edges.
(Large model builder hobby shops carry handy-sized small (e.g. 4" x 10") pieces of sheet aluminum from 1/64" to 1/16" thick.)
It can be bent easily to conform to body contours, and remains clean with extended use.
I've had experts tell me that the oxide layer hinders electrical contact. That may be true for high-current electric power connections, but it works well enough to provide relief from microwave burns.
My own harassers target my nose and lips for regular microwave burns. I've found one brand of dust mask made by Martindale Protection Ltd. which is a punched flat sheet of aluminum shaped to cover some lip, chin, and cheek areas. Doesn't cover the nose, but this mask can have a nose cover fastened to it to provide good coverage. (I will send a mask to anyone who needs such a device. Any additional nose guards etc. will have to be made by the recipient.)
I've also discovered that the complex curves of the face and head can be protected by taking time to carefully bend and fit 1/16" (or larger) aluminum wire so that it runs along the natural creases and edges of facial contours. When an open wire 'mask' is worn and burning starts up, I just roll my head into my pillow which puts a light pressure between the mask and my facial skin and deadens the greater part of the burning.
An open wire mask which has been pre-moulded to your own facial contours is so light and comfortable that you scarcely know you are wearing it. Thin elastic waist band material or even those long 6" rubber bands make good mask holders.
This is kind of an unpleasant thought, but some victims have had sensitive body orifices specifically targeted for microwave burns. (I haven't had a lot of trouble with this, though it does happen at times.)
It might pay to look for various aluminum housewares which might conform well enough to be used as conductive inserts. Aluminum is quite easy to file and saw, and an almost-right utensil might be used with a little work at a vise.
In the catalogue of my local hardware wholesaler are aluminum bolts ranging from 1/4" to 1" in diameter, and up to 6" long. Such bolts could conceivably be filed down for use as body orifice protectors.
(Some rough shaping can be done on a rough grinding wheel. That's not considered good shop practice, but who cares?)
Another handy skin contact shielding device are the galvanized "body and fender" washers available in most hardware stores. The most common size has a roughly 1/4" center hole, and is 1-1/4" outside diameter. These washers do come in smaller sizes. The widest selection would be from the catalogue of a hardware wholesale supply house. I've found that most hardware retailers will special order a box of 100 (say) of the smaller sizes.
I've found that one size with 11/64" inside diameter x 9/16" outside diameter fits well inside the outer ear. (My harassers sometimes target my ears for microwave burns.)
The relatively small centre hole doesn't seem to interfere with shielding properties.
Julianne McKinney has reported that the copper-coloured metallic pot scrubbers work as body-part shields. I haven't tried them yet -- the other materials including nickel- or chrome-plated dog collar chain seem to work well enough.
(Those metallic pot scrubbers seem to be disappearing from supermarket shelves.)
In general, copper and brass items should not be used in close skin contact because they dissolve in wet situations and may cause skin irritation and stains.
Any reader who has had success with various skin contact (or other) shielding materials is asked if they would let me know. I am in contact with a number of mind control victims who get regular microwave burns as part of their treatment.
raven1@netaccess.on.ca
Thanks.
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