-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._. ._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.- .----------------. -=[ EM/HERF Weapons ]=- /__________________\ ||\ ________ /| _ | Part 1 || |: :| |o(_)| "Putting that old Microwave Oven to use!" || |;-""""-;| |o(_)| || |________| | __ | Author: caesium ||/__________\|[__]| "------------------" hjw NOTE: This article is best viewed in TERMINAL font! I use high ASCII which is standard and works perfectly fine in lynx. If you find the schematics are fucked up. Just paste this bitch in notepad.exe (haha) and select font type Terminal! (and if your reading this in a *nix term you should have no problems) -=[ Disclaimer ]=- Nor I or my affiliates will take ANY responsibility for (mis)use of the device mentioned in this article. The device in this article is plain out fucking lethal. If you do not respect the construction or use of this device, it will kill your stupid ass in a flash (literally). This device, when built will contain HIGH VOLTAGE at HIGH AMPERAGE, which means if you touch or otherwise come into contact with a part which is energized it will cook your ass like that cat from national lampoons christmas vacation. This device also and obviously will emit HIGH RF ENERGY. If your in the way of said RF energy it will cook you. This means deep thermal burns and cataracts. It can blind you within 2 seconds or less and if you have any plans to have children you best be keeping your twig and giggle berries well out of harms way. This device contains capacitor(s) which can hold lethal charges for days even weeks. So keep that in mind. This will be further explained down the article. Let's recap. High Voltage, High RF Energy, High Amperage. All of which speak for themselves. *** Your first mistake will be your last mistake. *** -=[ Introduction ]=- I know the disclaimer is unseasonably long. However it is very important to convey the inherent dangers of fucking around with microwave parts. EM/HERF weapons and/or devices have been of great curiosity it seems to many people ive discussed it with in the scene. Perhaps this is because of the nature of the device, or the fact that most people in the scene are depraved maniacal fucks. Anyhow, I digress. I will in this article discuss, layout and illustrate how one can turn a microwave and some cheap easy to get components into a homebrew "LOOK WHAT I DID MOM!" EM/HERF Weapon. Personally, I don't like to call this device a weapon because I do not condone its use against personnel and the fact it makes a shitty impractical weapon. Its main theme and idea is to destroy/jam/fuck-up electronic devices. To construct this device you will need to have some skills as it pertains to building housing and wiring. If you lack these skills I suggest you not even attempt to construct this device because it will most likely end up killing you or fucking your shit up. Please read this article several times and MAKE SURE you have a solid idea of what I'm talking about, because forgetting to do something or connecting something wrong or etc. will be bad news. This EM/HERF "weapon" will emit HIGH ENERGY RF @ 2.4GHz which means it's very very very bad for biological things... so, don't aim it at people or animals. Remember, Alley Cats and Squirrels have feelings too.. Seriously.! The items you will need to construct this device are: 1) Old (Working!) Microwave oven. 2) Aluminum/Tin Foil 3) Aluminum/Tin Tape & Duct Tape (come on man, next to the WD-40) 4) Parts for Triggering Circuit! *read below* 5) Wood, of suitable size (1x1) to make a frame. 6) Wire (house wire, or extension cord.) 7) Parabolic Dish. (Or a Metal Salad Bowl!) 8) A will to die. -=[ Safety ]=- *PLEASE READ THIS SECTION* Without safety, you only have injury. Now lets cover some safety issues which will be key if you decide on building this crazy ass device. The big heavy transformer that the Magnetron needs to be powered by will make a lot of amperes at around 4.5kV (4500 volts). This is bad news if you touch any live wires from it. Because at this voltage and at that amperage it will in all likely hood kill you, and I'm being totally serious here. So, if you work on this device make sure it's unplugged, the capacitor is drained, you have one hand in your pocket and your wearing shoes. If you do all that, even if you get shocked it should hopefully not be enough to stop your heart. With that said, the other danger is the capacitor. Most all microwave caps have a bleed resistor internally which shorts them out causing a slow drain. That way they wont hold a charge for more than 5 minutes. This can be confirmed by looking at the capacitor. Most contain a little schematic on the side showing this. Here is a leet ascii schematic of a cap with a bleed resistor.. Ú/\/\¿ To explain. the -/\/\- is the resistor. ³ ³ and the Ä´ÃÄ is the capacitor. The resistor will HV ÄÁÄ´ÃÄÁÄ HV be shorting out the cap... guess what HV means?! Now, to manually drain the cap you can take a 1 or 2 W (watt) resistor of about 10kOhms and short the terminals out. That is the safe, non-shit-your-pants way of draining it. You could just be lazy and short it out with a screw driver but if mr. capacitor has some juice in him, he will send your screwdriver to screwdriver heaven and probably cause you to lay some cable. It's been my experience that most all microwave caps have bleeders on them, so if you do see the bleeder schematic as illustrated above, just go ahead and short the fucker out with a screwdriver.. Now, onto RF Energy safety. RF or Radio Frequency Energy is a very very weird mystical thing to try to explain to people because it does at times do some really whacked shit. It's unpredictable to the layman and is invisible; and very dangerous when strong. You wont see yourself getting burnt from it, you'll only feel pain and go "OH FUCK!!! AAAHHHHH".. RF Burns hurt, and can give you cancer or blind you, and sooo much more. I will explain down in the article how to avoid becoming a statistic and where you should be in relation to the emitter of the magnetron. RF Energy will bounce off of many items. If metal is not grounded RF energy will usually bounce right the fuck off it and reflect back at you.. Which as you can gather is not a good thing. Grounded metal usually will absorb and ground the RF energy, so try to keep this thing pointed at grounded metal only. Side with caution, use common sense (although you probably dont have any as your reading this silly ass shit). BUT BE SAFE!! Cause we don't want clone to lose any valued k-line readers now do we. -=[ Theory ]=- This device operates on the concept that the strong RF energy will be absorbed into the framework/chassis of the target device causing very high voltage energy spikes into its electronics/components causing said target device to fry or just plain break. Computer IC's (integrated circuits) are very susceptible to this brand of attack. CMOS devices dont like static electricity, so you can just guess how they will appreciate this.. -=[ The Magnetron ]=- No, I did not make this name up or some dumb shit like that. The heart of this article is this cool little diode type electron tube. Magnetron n : a diode vacuum tube in which the flow of electrons from a central cathode to a cylindrical anode is controlled by crossed magnetic and electric fields; used mainly in microwave oscillators. The magnetron itself requires 3 connections to function: 1) Filament Heater & Cathode (one and the same, 2 connections) 2) Ground (the metal casing itself) The basic idea is that we power the Magnetron, then bounce the radiation it will produce off a really half-ass RF Mirror causing whatever is in front of this device to receive the RF energy. Hence zappin' it. Here is more leet ascii on what a magnetron looks like (side view): ÖÄÄÄ· º***º <- this cap thingy is the antenna ÇÄÄĶ RF is emitted 180 degree's round º º º º ÄÄÄÒÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÐÄÄÄÐÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÒÄÄÄ ÌÍ###################͹ ÇÄ\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\Ķ ^ ÇÄ/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/Ķ |---- This flap is a ÇÄ\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\Ķ mounting bracket. that wavy shit -> ÇÄ/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/Ķ is the heat sink ÇÄ\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\Ķ ÌÍ###################͹ <- those #### is a big ÓÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄĽ strong ring magnet! ÉÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ» (both above and below) º º this base contains -> º ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ º chokes and a lot of º ³ @ @ ³ º <<-- the @ @ are the two empty space... º ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ º cathode/filament terminals º º ÈÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍͼ ÈÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍÍͼ Also, goto google and do an image search for "Magnetron" you'll get several links and images to more info and the many different varieties these things come in. ANTENNA: The magnetrons antenna is a metal cap mounted ontop of a ceramic insulator. RF Energy is emitted just as if it were a light bulb. IN ALL POSSIBLE DIRECTIONS!!! So. If you can SEE the cap, then your in an area which will be nailed by RF once this mofo is energized. Here is the ascii schematic of the Magnetron: /-----\ / \ ÄÄ|Ä¿ ³ | | ³* ÃÄ|ÄÄÄðð ÄÄ|ÄÙ ³ | GND \ / \-----/ As you can see it only really has 2 terminals (leads.).. This is unusual to most people who are not firmiliar with vacuum tubes and such. Basically, we need to run 3v (yes, 3 volts) at like 1-2 amps through the 2 leads (this will warm up that direct short as you can see the filament its called). And while the 3v @ 1-2 A is running thru it we run 4.5kV @ (fucked if i know) A thru the filament to the ground (which is the framework of the tube). So we are doing 2 things here, we are running (on its own circuit) power to heat the filament/cathode AND running high voltage/high amperage from the filament/cathode to the ground (the framework). This may seem stupid to most and its been designed like this for a reason, just connect everything as i illustrate and it will work fine. really.! -=[ Basic Device Layout ]=- Here is a schematic of how this device will be wired. F2 Ú/\/\¿ T1 F1 ³ ³ D1 GND ³³(ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ/\/\ÄÄÄÄÄÁÄ´ÃÄÁÄÂÄÄÄÃÄÄÄÄð ³³( C1 ³ ÄÄÄÄÄÄ)³³( HIGH ³ )³³( VOLTAGE! ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ AC ~ )³³( Secondary ³ 120v )³³( GND ³ /-----\ )³³(ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄð ³ / \ ÄÄÄÄÄÄ)³³ ÃÄÄ|Ä¿ ³ | ³³(ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ | ³* ÃÄ|ÄÄÄðð ³³(ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ|ÄÙ ³ | GND filament \ / heater \-----/ loop M1 PARTS LIST: F1) 0.6A HV Fuse. (should look white) F2) 1W 100kOhm Resistor (this is usually in the cap, so, forget it) C1) 0.01 -> 1.15 uF HV Capacitor D1) HV Diode M1) Magnetron T1) HV Transformer All of the parts listed WILL be inside your microwave. The fuse will be white usually. The Capacitor will be this large metal tube, it will be quite obvious, and should have the bleeder inside, so you can ignore the F2. The diode will be this black rectangular object about the size of .. hrm,.. 3cm X 1cm .. and the magnetron is obvious... The transformer will be this big ass heavy block of metal, if you don't know what a transformer looks like, you should DEFINITELY NOT be building this device. Once you scoop all this awesome shit outta the microwave you can set it aside. -=[ Construction ]=- Ok, here is the deal... First take that microwave apart so you have all the basic components. You can disconnect all the wires and shit, thats perfectly cool, because I will tell you how to wire them back up and shit. Once thats all done, youll need to figure out what you want to use as a reflector.. I suggest a metal salad bowl... Why? well, because its cheap, common, cheap, and did i say cheap?.. Get your ass to a Crappy Tire, buy a salad bowl and drill a hole which will accommodate the antenna spout that is sticking out of the top of the magnetron.. Dont make the hole too big. You'll notice there is the golden mesh on the top of the magnetron, that shit is called a RF Gasket.. Obviously, with that being said, youll want the hole not to be larger than the gasket. If a salad bowl doesnt tickle your fancy use something like a salad bowl or almost as deep as one. This is very important.. DO NOT use a stupid fucking DirecTV dish or something, thats just clown shoes man. Even the bottom 1' of a tin trash can or something like that will work. Ever see those big fucking things on antenna towers which look like drums?? bingo. Those are microwave antenna's and we want something like it. So keep that in mind. This is mostly important because of the way magnetrons radiate RF Energy. If you choose to use that DirecTV dish, I suggest you go fuck yourself for not listening to me. Ok, once the dish is selected, you need to construct a box which will house the electronics and magnetron and probably support the dish. I am not going to help you too much with this portion, mainly because its highly dependant on what you have available to use. I suggest hitting home depot and looking around. I would personally use wood for a frame. The magnetron has mounting holes in the top part. You should design your case to use these brackets. Give all the components room. You dont want to jam everything together because of the high voltage. Here is a cheap illustration of a case: ---\ \ \ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ \³ ÉÍÍÍÍÍ» ³ ³³ ºCAP º ³ ³³ÉÍÍÍ»ÄÄÈÍÍÍÍͼ ³ *Ä´³ºMAGº ³ ³ ³³ÈÍÍͼÄÄÉÍÍÍÍÍÍÍ»³ ³³ ºXFRMR º³ /³ ÈÍÍÍÍÍÍͼ³ / ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ / ---/ You can of course build a tripod base or whatever you want onto this... Use your imagination, be original.. Im merely telling you how to wire this bitch up so it works and such. A great deal of its ability to function will be in the dish/drum and the quality of the components. Steps.: A) Get Parts B) Build chassis C) Mount Magnetron D) Mount Dish/Drum E) Sheild! Onto shielding!.. Now.. shielding is fairly simple.. You basically wrap the entire chassis in tin foil and tape it up like Red Green with that aluminum tape. Once this is done ensure that the foil around the box is in direct electrical contact with the magnetron casing (which if you remember is connected to that isolated ground circuit). This will sheild the device from itself. Just dont touch it while its on. Note: make a panel which you can remove easy just incase you need to play with the internal components, or incase your stupid ass wired it wrong. Lots of people prefer to use sheet metal with a wooden frame. If you have access to and/or can afford to buy sheet metal, It is obviously the best solution as then you wont have to fuck with stupid aluminum foil or etc. Just as in the previous paragraph, ensure the sheet metal is fixed to the frame of the magnetron for proper "grounding". I originally built my unit pretty much as I have/am describing to you at this very moment. My device actually worked/works. I did however do it from scratch as at the time I didnt think to check the web for it. I have disabled several electronic devices with it. This was about 3-4 years ago however. I have since read several HERF/EM articles from several sources. That being said I have seen shit wired in ways which will do nothing to ways which will blow out your breakers or even cause the need for the fire department. I highly recommend you use the fuses which I have in the ascii schematics and side with caution and safety.. if you think its dangerous to be near this thing while its on.. YOUR RIGHT!.. also, dont touch the drum or dish or whatever you used as the reflector. It is hooked up to the ground and touching it may prove to be somewhat hazardous to say the least. It may do nothing, or it may kill you. I dont personally know cause I didnt go near this fucker while it was on. My ass was hiding around the corner of a brick house.. This is where I had the power switch. In my design (this design) I used the big dangerous transformer out of the microwave for a few reasons.. A) it was there.. B) you need AMPERAGE to power the hungry magnetron C) neon sign transformers WONT WORK! So, if you read any article where some schmuck used a NST (neon sign transformer) with a magnetron, laugh. Cause all it is, is bullshit. NST's supply 4kV->15kV+, sure they supply way more voltage. However they supply a piddly 30->50mA.. Thats milliamperes.. Not NEARLY enough amps to power the fucker.. So, This leads me to think that the vast majority of people who wrote EMP/HERF articles have never even tested or used them. What a bunch of fucking posers eh.. So, Once all this is mounted in a box and nice and clean. Then its time to move onto wiring the internal components up. Before I go into that I am going to explain how we are going to trigger this device. Diagram of Overall System. ÚÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³Wall ³------->³Trigger³--------->³EM/HERF³ ³Power³ ³ w/fuse³ ³DEVICE ³ ÀÄÄÄÄÄÙ ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ With this being said, We have not yet covered triggering mechanisms. I find myself at a loss on what to say for this, as there are several things one can use to accomplish this task. A simple house light switch, a relay, ... the list goes on. Whichever triggering solution you choose, make sure you put a fucking fuse on it, seriously.. If you want, you could go real slick and throw in a line filter, cause I assure you that this device will probably make some decent noise on your AC mains. However, its no worse than the fucking crap Ontario hydro pumps into my place anyways... Also, keep in mind to keep the power cables out of the way of the dish/drum because you dont want to inject RF into the mains directly, as that is just asking for trouble. There are other reasons for this, but whatever. This device has been designed so far, to run for very short periods of time. I wouldnt run this thing for more than 2 seconds.. If you do, may god have mercy on whatever is front of it. Running it for more than just a few seconds will probably ruin/destroy the magnetron. They are meant for duty cycling and that means pulsed or non continuous operation. If you do use this device a lot, I suggest running air over the heat sinks of the magnetron. I will not go into discussion on that, as running this thing for not even a mere second will have already destroyed most all electronics in front of the dish/drum. About triggers, I suggest a simple switch. In my next issue of EM/HERF 'Weapons' I will have some interesting triggering devices displayed in which one can use for the purposes of triggering this device. They will be exceedingly more complex than just 3 wires and some bubble gum. I would hate to give a full A-Z tell all. For a few reasons: I want ppl to learn, explore, and innovate. Put your own ideas together and have some fun. If your too lazy for this, use a fucking switch and leave me the hell alone. Now lets discuss wiring the primary components together. This is pretty easy as there is only a transformer, diode, cap and magnetron. The transformer will be weird to most ppl. Some ppl will go "gee, this is one fucking stupid ass transformer". And for the most part, your correct! The transformer has been designed for a microwave, not to suit your mad hobby needs. Most of the transformers ive come across only have 1 HV out and have the other HV lead directly connected to the frame/block of the transformer itself. If that is the case with your transformer, fear not. You'll need to isolate all the different connections on the transformer. The connections: 1) Primary (two wires connected to a smaller winding, AC mains) 2) Secondary (one wire which is probably just a terminal, and the transformer block itself.) 3) Filament Heater Coil (two wires which are apparent as this fucker only wraps around the core like 3-6 times.) Now, if you look at the schematic above which illustrates how this device is wired you'll see that its designed with that Secondary which has a lead connected to its frame, in mind. If you keep in mind the transformer has 3 coils, and try not to confuse yourself you should have no troubles wiring this up. As for the GND (Ground) in the schematic, you'll have to come up with a method of connecting all the GND's together. Then ensure the cases frame, shielding, etc. is all grounded to the ground. You can even attach this ground to the ground on your AC mains, and I suggest you do just that. If you do connect that ground to the AC mains ground (your house ground) the device should be safe to touch while running (however I would leave this testing up to a friend you dont all that much care for.)... NOT.. (dude's gotta cover his ass,) -=[ Operation ]=- Operation is fairly simple. PLUG IN STAND BACK SWITCH ON COUNT TO 1 or 2 SHUT OFF LAUGH MANIACALLY Thats about it. Keep in mind to stand well away from the emitter. Make sure that any metal or etc, in the way of this thing doesnt mirror to you or the RF will bounce back and fuck you up. Just becareful! Suggested targets are: * Old 286 computer. * Yappy neighbors dog. * Cheap calculators * Cars for scrap (which have `puters). * Something you dont like! Note: If you fire this at a modern car, It will *KILL IT*. I mean, it will seriously and absolutely fuck the cars computer in the ass like an episode of Oz. Ever had your sheesh pushed in dog? Huh essay!? Also, keep in mind cars are not grounded and will probably bounce 3/4 if not more of that RF right back at you.. So, just remember that. This device will emit a lot of Watts @ 2.4GHz .. Oh, doesnt 802.11 wireless networking run on 2.4GHz ?... NO DONT GET THOSE IDEAS!!! -=[ Conclusion ]=- I believe I have polluted enough minds. Just be smart and play safe. Respect ppl, animals and property. Be intelligent and use this for educational purposes and not to be a fucking cock sucker. Its a fun hobby with neat interesting results. You can do cool stuff with RF Energy, goto google and look up RF Energy and Magnetrons and get yourself some decent edumacation. This device makes a great lab piece just so long as you are smart about it. -=[ Credits ]=- Author: caesium Knowledge is power, Understanding is wisdom. -=Toronto 2600=- http://www.to2600.org Shouts: theclone, dec0de, kris, grinthock, jimmiejaz, and the to2600 crew. -._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._. ._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-